More than Markets
A Journey Through the Heart of Germany
With Christmas season in full swing, Germany is aglow with holiday spirit. The air is heavy with spiced Glühwein and smoky bratwurst. Wooden stalls adorned with evergreen garlands glow under the twinkle of fairy lights. Friends and families huddle over steaming drinks, sharing laughter and stories. It’s a celebration of togetherness wrapped in the warmth and Gemütlichkeit of the season—a magic we savored to the very last drop (or was that the Glühwein?) on our recent detour.
Truth be told, the markets were just the hook. With Christoph at the helm, you can be sure we took a deep dive into Germany’s complex history, its vibrant culture, and its tasty traditions. Far more than markets, our journey took us from Regensburg’s Roman foundations to Dresden’s remarkable resurrection. We sifted through centuries of stories, getting to know Marcus Aurelius, Charlemagne, Martin Luther, Prince Albert, and August the Strong. We also tasted life behind the Iron Curtain as Christoph shared personal accounts and hidden remnants of life split by East and West.
Our adventure began in the medieval heart of Regensburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site brimming with history and holiday charm. For three days, we made this Bavarian gem our home base, settling into our cozy hotel tucked beneath the shadow of its majestic Dom (cathedral). We strolled the Alte Stadt (Old Town), where the gothic cathedral soars above the meandering streets. The Thurn und Taxis palace transported us back in time, its Romantic Christmas Market glowing with festive warmth. Armed with cups of steaming Glühwein, we wandered among stalls brimming with handcrafted treasures and roasted treats, ending the day warming by the fire.
The next morning we journeyed an hour north to Nuremberg, home to the world-famous Christkindlesmarkt. Known as “the little city of wood and cloth,” its vibrant streets overflowed with handmade ornaments and the sweet aroma of Nuremberg’s signature Lebkuchen. Before indulging in these spiced gingerbread delights, we rolled up our sleeves at a local cooking school to craft a traditional Christmas dinner—a hands-on introduction to Bavarian hospitality made more flavorful with a little American chaos.
From there we proceeded north to Coburg, with a delightful stop in Bamberg along the way. This medieval World Heritage town enchanted us with its stunning architecture, bustling Christmas market, and rich brewing tradition. At the Schlenkerla tavern, we savored a hearty Bavarian lunch paired with Rauchbier, the town’s unique smoked beer. After exploring Bamberg’s winding streets, we arrived in pretty little Coburg.
Coburg brought history vividly to life. It was here we uncovered the roots of Prince Albert, long before he became consort to Queen Victoria. We learned the craft of brewing at Martin Luther’s favorite Gasthaus - The Grosch, enjoying a meal worthy of Luther himself. At Coburg Veste, the town’s formidable hilltop fortress, we admired sweeping views of northern Bavaria and the Thüringen Forest while learning about Luther’s refuge here, where he spent six months translating the Bible.
The following day personal history took center stage as Christoph uncovered traces of the Inner East German Wall and shared stories of growing up in its shadow. At a watchtower-turned-museum, we reflected on life behind the Iron Curtain, enriched by the insights of the local museum director. Lunch at the Triniushütte deep in the Thüringen Forest offered a cozy retreat with regional specialties to warm both body and soul. In Lauscha, the birthplace of modern Christmas ornaments, we learned the legacy of glassblowing from the Glass Princess herself.
Our final stop found us in Dresden, a baroque masterpiece and home to Germany’s oldest Christmas market. The annual Stollen Festival greeted us with music, medieval pageantry, and the parade of a monumental fruitcake. At the Striezelmarkt, twinkling lights and charming stalls offered the perfect opportunity for last-minute treasures and one final taste of holiday magic.
The next day, Dresden’s resilience came into focus as we explored its architectural triumphs. The Frauenkirche, painstakingly rebuilt after its destruction in World War II, stood as a testament to hope and perseverance. At the Zwinger Museums, we marveled at Saxony’s rich history through its art and treasures that rival the finest of Florence. That evening, a final feast brought us together one last time to toast not only the journey we shared but also the friendships we had forged.
As we departed the next morning, our hearts were full, carrying with us more than souvenirs or photos. This journey was far more than a visit to Christmas markets—it was an immersion into Germany’s history, culture, and the simple, unforgettable joys of shared stories and meals. It’s a season, a spirit, and a place we’ll carry with us always.
